We manage to locate a wooden sign leading us to our destination Nordmarkens Kanotcenter. After parking and checking in, we grab our backpacks and the site manager Tor directs us on a final stroll to our accommodation along a gravel road and through the trees, since it’s not possible to drive along the lakeside. 

Tucked away between the trees lies an igloo surrounded by a terrace floating on the water. The igloo has a rowing boat connected and on the terrace is a fire pit, chairs and a table neatly folded for the night.

The autumn season has taken hold this past week, and tonight the wind is increasing. As we ascend the igloo the weather gives the sensation that we’re actually sleeping on a ship. Anyone who has ever been on a rocking boat can imagine navigating in a small space with multiple pieces of luggage and it makes for a bit of a fun challenge. In the back of my mind I’m thankful that the igloo is located near the shore in the winter season, and not out on the lake like it would be during summer. 

Going from outside to inside is quite a contrast, the door lights up in what is now pitch blackness and northern chilling temperatures. Inside is a glowing light, cozy blankets, sheep furs and high tech facilities like heating, a functioning gas stove, plugs, WIFI, a toilet, running water and even a small “refrigerator”, a cupboard in the bottom of the igloo cooled by the lakewater.

The host has welcomed us with a grill package, which we opt for cooking inside due to the unsteady weather. We’re starving after the drive and are so happy to find the beautiful and neatly packaged ingredients for burgers and hotdogs, complete with cute little jars of ketchup, pickles, a dressing made from lingonberry and homemade potato salad. 

With full bellies we tuck in for the night, turn off all the lights, but a couple of electric candles and are lulled to sleep by the wind in the trees and the splashing waves. 

I would canoe back for this breakfast

I have woken up in snowy mountains and to a golden sunrise, but waking up here and this morning is extraordinary. When we arrived in the dark night, we could only make out the outline of our surroundings. What meets us this crisp autumn morning is a 90 degree view of the lake (being located on the actual water takes lake view to a whole new level), complete with the encompassing forest brushed in burning colors. The igloos’ glass ceiling reveals the clear sky above. 

Breakfast is delivered to our doorstep at 9.30 AM coordinated with our hosts. The contents of the delivery found outside our door paves this experience as one of luxury, as we unbox our second round of neatly organized little jars and packages containing fresh goodies such as a crispy sourdough baguette, eggs, a fresh pink grape, selected charcuterie, buckthorn jam and steaming hot coffee. I inhale it in my pajamas on the fluffy comforter.

It’s true what they say in the movies, fishing is a form of selfcare

I will admit, we’re outdoor people, but have zero skills when it comes to rowing a boat and therefore opt for renting a canoe, for which we have more experience. We also rent some fishing equipment and pack a lunch and a thermos.

We say a quick hello to 90-year old Gun who founded the center with her husband in 1955. The family has rented out canoes ever since, and through generations they have expanded their products to include other outdoor experiences including the two lakeside igloos sleeping four guests. Gun tells us that this lake is special compared to other places in Sweden, because it is so vast you can sail out for days, but she also points out a route fitted for a quick canoe excursion.

It is a gorgeous fall day and the water is so clear you can see the floor of the lake from the shore, and we’re excited to head out as the only two people on the lake. The project on this trip is for my husband to teach me how to fish without poking my own or his eye out in the process. I manage to make a throw which he modestly describes as alright (a personal accomplishment), and although we don’t catch anything, I can easily see why so many believe angling to be a very therapeutic activity.

Afternoon activities and food from a fire

On our way here my husband suggested we might carve out a pumpkin for a jackyard lantern as a fun fall activity, so after arriving back, we settle in on the deck in multiple layers of comfy clothing, heat up water for two cups of tea, and get the fire started for dinner. 

Tor has been checking in with us on what we would like to eat and delivers another amazing mystery meal box as well a large skillet and cutting board for preparing dinner outdoors. 

The box contains ingredients for moose stew including freshly picked chanterelles from the area, which we fry in a large knob of golden butter. Nothing loves butter like chanterelles. Combined with heavy cream, potatoes, sweet potatoes, onions, herbs and garlic this dish ends up being the perfect comfort food, and we eat until we’re stuffed and then some, while a perfect glowy sunset slowly covers the lake in darkness and our jackyard lantern smiles through crooked teeth.

How hot steam will leave you breathless

If you’re looking to propose to someone, this is the place to do it. 

While we have been exploring the area Tor has prepared a sauna and wilderness bath located 50 meters from our igloo. It takes most of a day to heat up, and we have collaborated on adding firewood every hour. My husband has gone ahead, while I’ve gathered a bottle of chilled wine and a robe, and I tell you I gasped when I walked into the clearing between the trees. 

Tor had spent many hours preparing the perfect setting, raking the leaves from the area, spreading lanterns around the large wooden tub and lighting a gentle fire which creates a warm and comfortable glow and spreads an almost etheric scent. The setting is magical with the dark trees towering around us and the starlit sky above so clear that we’re able to spot every constellation.

While we soak in the steaming tub the forest orchestra creates the backdrop soundscape.

There’s a small path leading to the lake lit by a couple of lanterns, but in the end we agree that we’re not true vikings and decide that standing in the cold autumn air is enough of a chill, before we try out the sauna.

During our entire time in the clearing we’re all alone, sipping wine and telling ghost stories with nothing to disturb us. When we reluctantly tear ourselves away from the outdoor spa experience, we are pleasantly surprised to discover that the ceiling of our igloo comes with a view of the same starry night sky.

Goodbye to this happy place

When we wake up on Sunday morning Jack Frost has painted the sunrise in a frosty winter rose and covered the rusty leaves in a paper thin layer of ice. I send him a warm thought – a frosty night means the end of mosquito season, but as I head out I also ache for the woolen mittens in the top drawer of my dresser at home.

We both needed to drop off the map in order to turn the next page and this was the perfect place to do so. I would compare this experience to that of a luxury hotel: the feeling of being the guest of honor, having hosts tending to your every need the minute it arises, but at the same time having an authentic outdoor experience in an exclusive and secluded location.

We would both jump at the opportunity to return to Yggdrasil Igloos in Värmland, not least because of the exceptional hospitality. 

What to pack for an autumn getaway

• Towel + swimwear
  There are shower facilities by the main hut and you wouldn’t want to miss the wilderness bath and sauna
   
• Multiple layers of comfy clothes
  Although you won’t need it inside, since the igloo is heated
   
• Snacks?
  Not sure you’ll need any. We were served beautiful breakfast and dinner, never being able to finish our portions, and there’s a small sale of ice cream, candy, and basic dry ingredients in the main house.
   
• A good book
  This is the perfect place for indulging in a break between the pages.
   
• A pumpkin
  If you would like to copy our Halloween activity.
   
• A backpack
  I recommend packing your luggage in something mobile, although the hosts offers to transport your luggage to the hut by ATV.
   
• A bottle of wine
  If we opted for chilled organic natural wine, the cherry on top of our sunset dinner and outdoor spa experience.